Toyota 3sfe camshaft timing marks

  • 3s Fe oil board specials
  • Toyota engines Replacing the timing belt. Toyota Ipsum 3S-FE. Updated version after the second replacement. Introduction: Yes, even though they talked a lot about the maintainability of Toyota, but I'll tell you that on the Passat it was easier to change the timing belt, although not much, and maybe a denser layout on minivans makes itself felt. Knowledge is certainly power! And if I knew the correct sequence of operations, I would do everything twice as fast.

    I did it according to a book, and there the sequence is such that they forgot to write the first line: Remove the engine and place it conveniently on the workbench We have to do this operation in a narrow space between the engine and the body. Well, enough of the lyrics, now just a sequence: 1. Remove the right front wheel. And we remove the boot aka crankcase protection : right half - by unscrewing 6 bolts and screws and pulling out one piston.

    You will get a gorgeous view of the shaft knee bolt. Unscrewing this bolt is another story. The main problem is to fix the pulley. I did it this way: I loosened the alternator belt as much as possible, tied the belt tightly with a rope just below the alternator pulley see photo , pulled the alternator belt again, the rope wedged. The same can be done with the power steering pump belt, but you cannot pull it so tightly there.

    Unscrew the bolt I managed to do this by hitting the collar with a hammer. In the end, you have not yet ruined the car and there is a chance to put everything back together and go in search of pullers or to a car service :- 3. Remove the power steering pump belt, fiddling with loosening the tension of this belt :- , I loosened bolts 3 and 4. Disconnect the battery terminals!!! We remove the generator, generator belt 5. Remove the power steering reservoir pull up by pressing the latch between the body and the reservoir.

    We unscrew the power steering line 2 bolts 1 and 2, see photo. Substitute the jack under the engine and we begin to remove the support, even I would say to disassemble it. First, unscrew 1 nut from the bottom pictured 10 , 1 nut and bolt from the top pictures 8 and 9. We unscrew the 3 bolts with which the support is attached to the body. We take out the support We climb under the car.

    We lower the jack on which the engine stands. We unscrew the 3 bolts of the support bracket in the photo 5, 6 and 7. Remove the upper timing protection cover.

    To do this, raise the engine again to the highest possible position with a jack. The cover is removed with a rather tricky movement, because the brake master cylinder and power steering lines and brakes are very interfered with.

    Lower the engine again. And remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing cover. The crankshaft pulley may not come off so easily. But it has threaded holes like the M6. The photo below shows my artisanal puller. Mark with paint the exact location of the belt on the crankshaft and camshaft.

    I also installed, just in case, as it is written in the book, the 1st cylinder at TDC, marks to zero, etc. Loosen the belt tensioner roller, wring it out and screw it back on.

    This operation alone requires some dexterity :- Remove the timing belt. Transfer the marks to the new belt. We put the belt back.

    We follow the exact match of the labels. One of the difficult moments during assembly is to attach the lower part of the support to the engine bolts 5,6, I changed it twice and suffered twice. Handicraft pulley fixation :- power steering belt support and adjustment bolts crankshaft tags Conclusion: Of course, I was a little wrong by buying a non-original timing belt and not changing the roller Required tools: 1. Two jacks and a tripod for car insurance. Keys for 10 and 14 of all possible shapes open-end, curved, etc.

    The head is 14 long when unscrewing the support, a far protruding pin gets in the way. Head for 12, 19 and extension cords. Small round nose pliers detach the wire fastening latches 6. Puller or pulley remover. The information obtained in the process of reading will help to make correct and economical repairs, without unnecessary spending of money on remuneration of specialists.

    But first, let's figure out what the timing belt is and what functions it performs. Opening the hood, you can easily see the rubber belt connecting the crankshaft and camshaft. It also passes through a tensioner whose function is to prevent sagging of the device itself.

    The belt ensures the synchronous rotation of all the units of the gas distribution mechanism, and also creates the tightness of the combustion chambers at the moment of ignition of the fuel-air mixture.

    The timing belt itself is usually made of rubber. Its outer side is smooth, while the inner, on the contrary, has protrusions designed for strong adhesion to the nodes of the mechanisms.

    Belts can be of different quality and composition. Materials are cheap, and sometimes more expensive with the addition of polymers. Inside a quality product, there must be fiberglass threads, which provide increased elasticity and resistance to mechanical damage. On average, such a unit in a Toyota car can last 4 - 5 years. It is worth considering that when replacing a branded belt with a new one produced by another company, you must definitely pay attention to the service life of this product.

    Due to untimely repair and replacement, a timing belt rupture may occur. This is a rather unpleasant breakdown that can lead to serious and expensive repairs. So, let's imagine a car after the communication between the camshaft and the crankshaft has stopped due to a rupture of the gas distribution mechanism drive. The vehicle will coast, losing speed because it now lacks the transmission of torque from the engine to the transmission.

    The valve movement will stop. But the pistons will continue to move further inside the cylinders. They will hit the lower part of the valves, because of this, damage to these parts of the power plant often occurs. Not infrequently, this leads to the replacement of only some units, but a break in the timing belt can lead to a complete replacement of the engine. Always keep an eye on the mileage and service life so as not to miss the time set by the manufacturer for replacing the timing belt.

    This will save you time and family budget, as well as increase driving safety. During repairs, it is important to know the name and location of the parts and assemblies of the unit. Therefore, below you will find a diagram of the gas distribution mechanism of the 3S-FE engine with the signed components.

    Dismantling the old unit must be done carefully, without damaging the attachment points and associated mechanisms. On Tayota's car, you should not use brute force in order to disassemble any of its component parts. Be sure to follow the instructions in this manual to prevent unnecessary damage and save your time. First, it is worth de-energizing the entire car by disconnecting the negative wire from the battery.

    After you have done this, you can remove the right component of the protection of the power plant. Next, it is worth removing the belt that drives the generator. Then it will be convenient for you to disconnect the belt drive of the hydraulic power steering.

    Now you can see the 4 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the right engine mount. They must be unscrewed. Now remove the bottom of the timing cover and set the 1 piston to the "compression" position. Next, it's worth working on the crankshaft. It must be rotated so that the notch on the cogwheel is aligned with the mounting mark on the top of the bearing.

    If there is no mark, then the crankshaft should be turned one full turn. Now it is worth removing the crankshaft pulley, having previously loosened it with a special tool. After you have done this, be sure to make sure that everything timing marks 3s engine are still aligned. If possible, loosen the belt tensioner and temporarily tighten the bolt a little.

    Remove the timing belt from the camshaft gear. Remove the timing guide. Now completely remove the timing belt itself.

    Mitsubishi engines Toyota engines You will need about six hours. The first thing you need to do is remove the wheel and the motorcycling of the engine at first, it is attached to two bolts and two plastic latches. How to get to the timing belt And then let us begin to say to the most responsible and complex procedure, you will need to unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt.

    In the pulley, there are four small holes, they are designed for a special tool, their diameter is very small, so it is not enough to adapt to use enough and at first glance it is impossible. You can hold it with vice, and using scrap to lock it. Now unscrew the bolt. Everything, hard work ended now you need to remove the air conditioner and the generator belt to do this, you need to weaken the locking and axial bolts of the generator. To remove the gur belt, the tensioning bolt will need to be unscrewed, but it will not be possible to get to the "axial", so you will need to loosen the tension of scrap and remove the belt.

    All, now disconnect the black wire that comes from the motor to the support. Do not forget to deliver a jack under the right side of the engine, you can continue. We begin to dismantle the right support that interferes with the shooting of protective housings. The top bracket will be pulled to the motor with two nuts, now raise a little engine and pull out support. Everything, nothing will no longer hurt to remove the covers, first of all unscrew the upper casing, there are only five bolts there, in some places it is very difficult to get to the bolt.

    Then the lower, when you remove problems, it should not arise. Installation of TRM labels Before you put the pulley and combine the staggers of the asterisk, you need to unscrew the candles to disappear compression, now the pulley is satisfied with the crankshaft and you can combine tags. In order to make sure in the coincidence of the stars of camshaft, you can take the mirror and look through it in the hole of the asterisk, if everything is correct, you can see the label on the block.

    Now you have to remove the bolt that fixes tension roller After removing the spring. It is calmly not twitching, and in no case is not twisting the belt, we are painting it from stars and rollers. Before putting a new belt, it needs to be compared with the old on the coincidence of the number of teeth, serial numbers And of course length.

    As soon as the belt was put, the tensioner spring was thrown, the crankshaft must be scrolled on 2 turns, so that the roller tensioner makes his work, that is, pulled the belt. Before assembly, check the coincidence of the labels, we will weaken and drag the belt in the opposite direction. Hello everyone. Immediately I want to say that I do not pretend to something there I just decided once I change the belt, I will describe the whole process and I will have a photo The only thing that some photos are because Not always the hands were clean, sometimes just forgot to photo.

    So start. All the work done did one, without anyone, for everything about everything went to two days, the day was picking somewhere at three to four hours.

    Everything did in his iron garage with the curve floor paved in dispostently than, there was no smooth surface. Poons, respectively, was also not, garage without light. Tool: From the tool, a small Satovo set of heads Further break the crankshaft bolt. We take the head to 19, a good not a flitching knob insert into the bolt and insert from the bottom into the drive or the lever, who likes more, but it is more convenient to the drive.

    I don't have anything with the engine, it is not necessary to shoot anything fuel supply hoses, candles, armrankets, etc. I had a bolt with the second attempt. In the photo, it can be clearly seen where to rest the knob, beat the hammer on the gate, as some, too, do not write, so we will twist it when we do everything.

    Next, we relax the bolt of the stretch stretch: To the axial bolt of the upper fastening of the hydroperizer getting problematic, but you can have a cape on 14, but I did not do this and after relaxing the lower bolt, it simply picked up the hydraulic lombing.

    Five minutes of business to be honest. After that, you can remove the belt of the steering wheel. Next, we completely remove the generator. On 3S to do it can even a schoolboy, it costs on top and everything is so available that just before disgrace.

    We relax the axial bolt on the 14, then the position fixation bolt, it is on the side of 12, then you can turn the adjustment bolt that from above while the belt does not relax to such an extent that it can be easily removed.

    I pull out the chip, unscrew the nut locking power wire, remove it, unscrew all two bolts that hold it and remove the generator.

    Next, remove the upper protective housing of the timing belt. We unscrew several bolts for 10, so it was useful to a small set of heads. I did not shoot any other, but simply pulled it out from there by force, breaking the bottom edge Our gaze opens toothed pulley camshaft and tensioning roller.

    We take a cape key to 14, we put on the bolt fastening the camshaft pulley and a hammer counterclockwise with a sharp and accurate bale blow, bale As a bolt straightforwards, you do not unscrew everything left so. Then we unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, it is already ripped from us, as you remember, remove the pulley with the help of the filler. I went very easily, the exchanger only moved from the dead point, and on his hands. Removed pulley, unscrew the lower protection, there are a few bolts on 10, there is nothing hemorrhoids.

    Next, you need to trig a nut pump for the driving gear of the oil pump. And he threw the key on The tightening there is not strong therefore there will be no problems, the main thing is to immobilize the gear. The photo did not sorry Now when everything is broken, namely: the drive gears of the oil pump and the camshaft put back the lower plastic protection, we throw the pulley to the crankshaft, tighten the bolt and turn it clockwise until the label on the crankshaft pulley does not match the label 0 on the bottom protection housing.

    As coincided, we see the camshaft in it will see the hole. If the hole at the top then take a small mirror like in the standphogs or which the number of the DVS is watching and trying to see through this hole oblong not a round label on the casting head.

    She is on the ledge where the camshaft seal is inserted. If the hole on the gears somewhere below, and the label on the crankshaft pulley by 0 then we twist another turn. I did not have a mirror There is another trick. Everything is now when everything is worth the tags you can shoot an old belt.

    You can certainly put your labels on the old belt on the old strap and put their labels on the pulleys, and then transfer them to a new belt, so that exactly everything then coincided. They removed the belt first that I did it washed everything from oil and dirt. First kerosene and tassel, then sucking the liquid to clean the carburetors. Pulled the crankshaft gland, set new difficulties did not appear because Places of free a lot, which you will not say about the seal camshaft, but about it later.

    Then he took off the oil pump, attached to several bolts on 10 and difficulties does not cause difficulties. Plipping on it was of course the scribe Washed, replaced the gland on the removal of the pump to change the gland, like two fingers Obasofalt. Washed the seat on Dvigla, and then the chip The groove groove is on the lublovin, and the pump housing is flat, so the gasket is inserted into the groove and under the top of the pump housing, nothing complicated The gasket does not hold in the groove and under the power of global gravity falls on the dirty floor We take the sealant in my case it is a red high-temperature sealant for pallets and clapped lids I will squeeze with Gulkin Hypan on your finger and smear the gasket, just so that it becomes Sticky and not in the case, do not give me to the groove or yet where.

    Sticky from the sealant laying insert into the grooves, the sealant on it is generally visible even should not be, a very thin layer, and when it keeps there and does not fall apply and fasten the pump cover. The degree of effort when tightening the bolts is minimal, a small gorog, and otherwise the thread in the engine block is broken. Yes, I forgot to say before removing the crankshaft pulley, we substitute the jack under the engine, we are wearing a skidding that everything is clear and pistato stood.

    Then we unscrew the right pillow from the body and the support of the DVS and remove it. Press the motor. For a good, you need to remove the opposor from the motor, it is attached on three bolts for 14, but my Soviet heads were notable there and I did not remove it.

    If it does not remove it, then the consequence of this is just one thing to pull out the top plastic protective lid of the timing belt. And even if you pull out, as I broke the bottom corner, then do not put back.

    As a result, that we have: Oil pump ished, the gland and gasket are replaced, the knee gland is replaced, we unscrew the rollers with new screws. The bypass immediately tight, tensioning, put on the spring with a finger to Davim Dotlic down so that the spring stretched and tighten the bolt to fix it in this position.

    Next, the most hemorrhea is the replacement of the seal of the camshaft. If it does not flow, it is better not to touch IMHO. I had this way: the old knocked without any problems he stood crookedly, someone before me, with the last replacement, he could not put it as president on me, but nevertheless he did not huggy the Location Proterer of course, the new seal was smeared by the Maslitz and how much could There hands.

    Naturally it turned out not deep. Then I began to think There is no place at all even if we substitute the mandrel which I naturally did not have that it would not work on it. After the buried cigarette and five-minute thought, it was decided to set it there. In short, I was afraid of forty all sorts of stops and levers Everything is ready to collect. We put the camshaft pulley back, tighten the bolt to your fingers until it stops, so that the pulley does not hang out, the key is not yet necessary.

    The gear of the oil pump could be put when it was removed, and it is possible and then there is no particular difference. We put the crankshaft gear. We start the belt, if they put on it and on the pulleys their tags, then they must coincide. Check, everything is worth it, all Okay. We release the bolt fixing the position of the stretch roller, the spring presses it to the belt. The crankshaft gear is unforgettable to wear a washer that does not allow to fly a belt, put the pulley.

    We screw the bolt, we put the head on it at 19, take the knob and twist the pulley.

    Because I did not remove the engine support, then put back the top plastic protective cover is very difficult. I did not hide and put it back, left the motor without it. After the belt takes place somewhere in km. It must be tightened and see if everything is there in the port, then after this procedure and I will put the cover back, but for now I can travel anything a terrible couple without anyone. But everything can be seen what is happening there : Something like that. If, that I forgot, do not judge strictly.

    I will be glad if my experience is useful to someone. Remove the right front wheel. And remove the boot aka Carter's protection : right half - by revealing pieces of 6 bolts and screws and pulling one piston. You will open a gorgeous view of the crankshaft bolt. Revealing this bolt separate song. The main problem lock the pulley. I did it like this: weakened the generator's belt as possible, firmly plugged the rope belt just below the generator pulley see photopulled the generator belt again, the rope turned out.

    This can be done with the gur of the pump of the pump, but they do not stretch so tightly.

    3s Fe oil board specials

    We unscrew the bolt Do not think that it will be easy. I managed to make the hammer strikes on the gate. In the end, you have not yet reached cars and there is a chance to collect everything back and go to search for shooters or in the car service :- 3.

    Remove the pump belt GUR, tapped with the weakening of the tension of the on-tree belt :-I let go of the bolts 3 and 4.

    Disconnect the Accord terminals!!! Remove the generator, the generator belt 5. Run a tank of Goura by pulling up, pushing the latch between the body and the tank.

    We unscrew the highway Gur 2 bolts 1 and 2 cm. We substitute the jack under the engine And we start to remove the support, even I would say to disassemble it. First unscrew the first nut from below in photo number 101 nut and bolt from above in photo 8 and 9.

    We unscrew 3 bolts with which the support is attached to the body. We take out the support At the same time, the highway of the gur damn prevents. We climb under the car. Lower the jack on which the engine is worth. We unscrew the 3 bolts of the support bracket in photo 5, 6 and 7. Remove the top cover of the timing cover. To do this, you need a jack again to raise the engine to the topmost position.

    The lid is removed by a rather cunning movement, because Very prevents the main one brake cylinder and highway gur and brakes. Sunday the engine again. And remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower protective cover of the timing. Pulley knees of the shaft may not be so easy.

    But there are holes with a chopped thread like M6. In the photo below shows my handicraft. The butterfly roof angle were screwed and the pulley bolt squeezed all this design.

    We mark the paint exact location of the belt on the crankshaft and camshaft. I also installed on every case as written in the book 1st cylinder in the NMT, tags for zero, etc. Weaken the roller of the belt tensioner, press it and screw it again. This operation alone requires some dexterity :- We remove the timing belt. Transfer tags to a new belt. We put the belt back. Watch the exact coincidence set by tags.

    Next, we collect everything in the reverse order, without forgetting by the book to pull the timing belt. One of the complex moments during the assembly, it is to bring the lower part of the support to the engine 5,6,7 bolts Brief certificate. According to the book, the manufacturer recommends changing the timing belt everykm or every km if the machine is operated in harsh conditions sport, off-road Also, the belt loses its properties when oil comes into it Liquid, in such cases an unscheduled GDM replacement is carried out along with the cause of eliminating the leaks of oil.

    Cautions: 1. Before starting work, appreciate your capabilities, experience and conditions for work. Even with a relatively experienced motorist, this procedure may take the whole day of leisurely. During the work, you will inevitably meet some difficulties - the pruring bolts, torn heads or broken keys. Evaluate really, whether you have time, desire and perseverance, to perform this work from beginning to end with proper quality and accurateness should not be engaged in this in the courtyard at home.

    Perhaps it is worth trusting professionals. Do not work under the car standing on the jack - be sure to place a chock, wheel or tripod and make sure that the machine is absolutely reliable and does not swing. On this engine is not scary to turn the crankshaft or camshaft When the timing belt is removed, but in some other one you can easily drive the valve, be careful!

    Do not forget to unscrew the candles, otherwise, when scrolling the crankshaft, you can get the same injury of the face, hands or tooths. Never start the engine with a weakened tensioning roller bolt - you can damage the timing belt and the kikuyu traditional ornaments. Do not attempt to fix the pulley otherwise, except for the pulley itself - you can damage anything in the engine.

    Do not apply the starter to unscrew the pulley bolt, as many are advised on the Internet. When re-using the timing belt, mark its direction of rotation and do not install it on the contrary. Do not stretch, do not bend and do not twist a used timing belt Yes, and the new one should not spoil.

    Do not stretch high voltage wires When you get out the candles. When fixing the pulley, do not try to stroke it for the plastic cover Never knock the hammer or metal objects for pulley - its edges are very fragile. To replace the timing belt you will need the following tool: - end heads for 10, 12, 14, 19 and extension cord - Gorog and ratchet - Hamuts or durable fine thread.

    For Salnikov - Hamuts for the timing belt screed - marker for tags - It is advisable to prepare a fixture for fixing pulley. You can do and with appropriate means, but it is quite inconvenient and needed big choice Programming. According to the financial capabilities of everyone, a set of spare parts is purchased. When collecting this set, it is necessary to be guided by the rule - why disassemble each time on trifles, if you can change all consumables on the way, it is especially for the glands and pads, they are not at all great money to bother.

    Roller by waterway 3. Seal camshaft 4. Front Oil Crankshaft 5. Oil pump shaft seal 6. Roller tensioner 7. Oil pump gasket 8. Cooling system pump pump 9. Spring Predify the car - the engine will rely on a chock and weaken the pressure on the right pillow. Jack must be put as close as possible to the wheel removed. These nuts on the pillow are coated on a sufficiently long stud, and you cannot unscrew them with the usual head. In the engine compartment, we unscrew the cushion bolt, then take it out only first the engine is lowered on a chock!!!

    One of the bolts goes into the niche of the wheel, do not forget to spy its WD from the wheel side. Unscrew the bolt with a tubular key to The attachment: The attachment: - To remove a large belt on the air conditioning generatorwe release a tensioner bolt on the generator, relaxing the belt to the required level.

    The attachment: The attachment: The attachment: - Remove the wires of the wire and remove the candles, so as not to play pulley. Fix the pulley is better than a special device. If you do not have such a device, try, for example, such a way. In one of the two holes in the pulley, insert a durable metal pin of a suitable diameter, for example, a drill shank. Put on the opposite side of this key, a suitable piece of tap pipe and emit into the ground. The attachment: - Now almost everything is ready.

    We take the head to 17, we dress it on the crankshaft pulley bolt, we rest in a lever spinning clockwiseI pull what we can, so we will weaken the crankshaft bolt. The engine will start climbing, but the weight of the car should be enough to unscrew the bolt. Do not insert a pin into the pulley hole deeper than 10 mm - you can damage the timing belt cover, which is under the pulley. The attachment: - weakened, after that I put the crankshaft by 0 degrees.

    There is a notch on the pulley. Look at the camshaft pulley - the hole with a diameter of about 5 mm should be at the top. If this is not the case - check the crankshaft to one turn and again align the crankshaft mark. Try to find the camshaft mark. It should be visible under the pulley through this hole.

    Consider the camshaft mark is very difficult, you may have to use the flashlight and the mirror. When you find a label and make sure that the hole in the pulley is accurately opposite the label, apply a nitrocracy of its mark on the camshaft pulley and a shield that is under it. The attachment: - Immediately on the pulley camshaft with a simple pencil or marker, we apply a label from above and next to it a response mark on the engine housing. This label we record the correct position of the camshaft pulley.

    The fact is that in all allowances for repairing the camshaft pulley, it is recommended to install in the desired position of the combination of the hole in it with a label on the engine housing the label should be seen through the hole. But in a real situation, notice for late comers in school to the installation of the engine, it is not possible to look at the tilt to this hole, as the front rack niches interferes.

    Check the combination of tags to the touch newcomer does not always succeed. It is possible to find the carnation, knowing the form. The attachment: The attachment: The attachment: - Strink the pulley from the crankshaft.

    Spray the landing place on the WD shaft. Try to remove the pulley with my hands, slightly shaking. If it does not work, take a small wooden bar and lean to the pulley below, on the reverse side. Holding the other end of the bar in hand, knock in the middle of the bar. EGR valve, this is an eternal problem on all engines with the recycling system of exhaust gases.

    Over time, when using poor-quality gasoline, the EGR valve is locked up, it starts to establish and over time completely ceases to act, at the same time, the engine is filled, the engine is tupit, not going, etc. The problem is solved by the systematic cleaning of the valve, or its joing. Fall turnover, stalls, does not go. All idle problems, in most cases, are solved by cleaning the throttle block, but if it did not help, then clean the intake manifold.

    In addition, the reason can be a fuel pump and a polluted air filter. High fuel consumption for 3S, sometimes even absurd. Adjust the ignition, clean the nozzles, BDZ, idle valve. Eliminate the replacement of the engine pillow, or the cylinder does not work. The problem lies in the radiator lid, change. In general, the Toyota 3S engine is good, with adequate maintenance he drives long and sufficiently rising.

    Resource, in normal conditions, easily exceeds thousand km. If you do not complicate your life and not take 3S-FSE, there will be no problems with the engine. On the basis of 3s, modifications were made with various operating volumes, the younger brother is 1.

    Ina new engine appeared, which replaced the veteran 3s. What about GE, they are not bad without us, so that you need to move on need to put a lightweight wrist SPG, lightweight crankshaft, everything should be balanced.

    GBC grinding, intake final channels, bring the combustion chambers, valves with titanium plates, camshafts with phaselifting And your 3S will be spinning for rpm. For further movements, you need to put shafts with a phase over and the maximum lifting, cut gears, disconnect the VVTI, 4th throttle inlet from TRD for example and twist for rpm until it turns out.

    To get serious power you need to clean the standard turbine, search for turbo whale with an intercooler for the required power the most balanced version is Garrett GT28 and depending on this choose more powerful nozzles from sthe bottom forged preferablyphase shaftsfuel pump From Supra, forward flow exhaust on a 76 tube, setting up AEM EMS. The config will show about hp.

    Further increase in capacity is possible using China based on Garrett GT30 or GT35, with reinforced bottom, it will ride quickly, loudly, but not long.

    The car requires a clear attention and maintenance, then he will serve for a long time and reliably, and if you neglect and depart minimize, then you should not expect from the car positive results. The same applies to the engine 3S-FE - oil for it needs to be acquired with knowledge of the case, and not because of the brand and not on the advice of friends. Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption!

    Do not believe?

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