Maglite suppressor plans


  • Top 35 of Mag Light Suppressor
  • DIY Maglite Flashlight Suppressor
  • Modular Solvent Traps vs. Monocore Solvent Traps
  • Homemade Maglite suppressor on different 22 lr guns
  • Let’s chat about suppressor design
  • Downrangevideos
  • Top 35 of Mag Light Suppressor

    Use your masking tape to mask off the end of the gun barrel and do no allow the tape to wrinkle while keeping tight. Place the drill rod down the barrel to keep the brake line aligned.

    Perfect alignment is extremely important. Sometimes the drill rod will be a little too large to fit into the barrel. In this case, chuck the drill rod into a drill and turn it down with a file or sandpaper, a little at a time, until it fits perfectly.

    How to make a Silencer Construction Part II Wrap glass mat around the end of the gun barrel and brake line three times. Secure it in place with rubber bands every half inch. The glass mat should be wrapped about two inches behind the sight and up to the first holes on the brake line. Now mix the resin. A few spoonfuls will do. Mix it two or three times hotter than the package directions.

    Brace the weapon in an upright position and dab the resin onto the glass mat with a brush. Keep applying resin until the mat is no longer white but becomes transparent from absorption of the resin.

    As soon as the resin starts to harden and becomes tacky, detach the brake line and fiberglass from the barrel.

    Do this quickly before the resin hardens completely. First use a razor blade to cut a notch behind the front sight so that the whole piece can be removed. Then push on the fiberglass to slide it off. Do not pull it off from the other end as the alignment will be thrown off. Use a sander, grinder or 80x sandpaper to smooth out the hardened rough surface. Next, grind the sides down about halfway, but do not grind past the point where the front sight makes contact. Cut it down until the barrel fits snugly and easily.

    Stand the glassed brake line upright in a vise. Mix a small amount of resin and use an eyedropper to fill in any interior holes or air bubbles until the solid fiberglass is level with the steel tube end. This will give the junction between the brake line and fiberglass coupling added strength. Acetone can be used to clean the eyedropper. Cut the PVC tubing to the desired length. A longer silencer will be necessary for more powerful cartridges.

    Drill a large hole in the center of one end cap, making it large enough to fit on the fiberglass end to the point where the front sight makes contact. Wrap masking tape around the end cap to cover the holes.

    Stand the cap with the inside tube inserted into a vise. Get the cap level and straight with the brake line. Resin fills the small holes, making the tube strong enough to withstand the muzzle blast.

    When the inside is hardened, turn the assembly over and fiberglass around the backside of the end cap for added strength. Avoid getting resin in the opening where the barrel fits. Place the finished cap and inner tube on one end of the PVC tubing that has already been cut to size. Center the brake line as you look in the open end of the PVC. Sharpen one end of the drill rod to a point and use it as a center-punch.

    Stand the assembly up with the solid end cap down. Drop the drill rod down the brake line to get a true center mark. Using a drill bit slightly larger than the outside diameter of the brake line, remove the end cap and drill the hole.

    This rubber swipe will help prevent any hot gasses from escaping even after many shot have been fired through it because rubber tends to stretch and rip rather that have material blasted out of it by a gunshot. The hole will reseal itself after firing keeping the system nice and tight. Replace this swipe whenever the bullet hole becomes too large to contain gasses.

    This step will make a big difference, particularly in small silencers. The brake line should push into and slightly stretch the rubber swipe. The swipe should not stick out past the face of the cap. Grind off the end of the brake line to get a perfect fit. Unfold sections of steel wool and roll into long strands.

    Apply white lithium grease to each strand before feeding them into the silencer tube in a circular motion. The white grease helps to cool the hot gasses of the muzzle blast, thereby reducing the loudness of the gunshot. Pack the steel wool tight with a stick, continue this until the silencer tube is completely full. Paint the finished silencer flat black and attach it to your weapon. Proper alignment can be ensured by using a hose clamp around the barrel extension behind the front sight.

    Test as described in the Silenced. This silencer can be counted on to function for over rounds before it will be necessary to open it up and repack it with new steel wool and lithium grease.

    Other Survival Solutions This are the most reliable survival books that you can find.

    DIY Maglite Flashlight Suppressor

    Quick view Solvent Trap Beginnings Initially, solvent traps utilizing a T6 or Aluminum tube, a sealed end cap, a threaded end cap and several aluminum or stainless steel cups depending on the length of the tube , were by far the most popular. Actually, solvent trap tubes and cups are still a very popular types of solvent trap configurations. However, the demand for different materials, cup styles and end cap adapters has created a market that innovative CNC machine shops have happily supplied.

    Many of the earlier solvent traps were converted from Maglite tubes. Furthermore, the side with the lightbulb would be replaced with a sealed end cap, and the opposite end was fitted with a threaded end cap. Then there were other final touches which were popular, prior to the knowledge of storage cups. Storage cups or dividers come with solvent traps. These products are nothing more than firearm cleaning accessory.

    Eventually, freeze plugs were replaced by users who found out about solvent trap storage cups. The standard measurements for the Maglite were based off battery size. Some preferred a smaller builds such as the B-Cell Maglite, and others preferred a larger build which would be the D-Cell. Then there were others who preferred a diameter between these two, and would go with a C-Cell.

    A-Cell sized kits were highly sought after too… Next came the CNC milling companies armed with machines and CAD design software who saw a new market opportunity. These companies machined tubes, along with cups and end caps that had much better fits than the DIY Maglite alternatives.

    This created more opportunity because there was a huge demand for stronger materials such as stainless steel, and stronger and lighter materials such as titanium. In reality, these companies were simply creating firearm cleaning accessories which have been around for years, but with a different intent, unlike our intent. Some purchase higher grade solvent traps to clean their firearms and like the look of certain designs, aesthetically pleasing or for sure novelty.

    But the largest portion of demand that spurred further innovation in the solvent trap market is attributed to the ATF Form 1 Process. Heck, many in the solvent trap industry may venture to say the ATF is the biggest marketer or customer of existing solvent trap companies. Upon approval, they can go pick up their NFA item. As of this writing, average wait times are about 12 to 16 months, up from months during preceding lower demand years.

    We are explaining this process for educational purposes and also to explain the issue below when purchasing a monocore solvent trap — Armory Den sells solvent traps for cleaning only and our disclaimers can be found throughout our site. Now that covers the Form 4 Process, but what about a Form 1? Completing a ATF Form 1 is something that you can do yourself, it was created for individuals or individuals via a trust or business entity, to manufacturer and serialized a firearm or similarly pre-serialized item.

    The goal being, for the item to be serialized, the goal by the ATF of course, through the NFA is oversight and registration they know exactly who has what when it comes to any Form process. The Form 1 Process has become very popular because it allows individuals to legally build and own their own suppressors along with other serialized firearms built or manufactured without pre-existing serial numbers.

    We at Armory Den sell solvent traps as firearms cleaning accessories. We understand though that much of the demand for solvent traps is for the purpose of completing the Form 1 process and converting solvent traps into registered suppressors.

    That is why we disclaim that we do not recommend this but we do provide the information needed throughout our site on the proper channel to take in order to successfully file a Form 1. The Form 1 can be sent via hard copy or online via E-file through the Form 1 Efiling area. The reason the Form 1 Process has become so popular is that the Form 4 process takes up to 8 times longer to process.

    At the time of this writing, a Form 1 can be approved in as little as a few weeks to a month or two, and as mentioned above, the Form 4 can take up to 8 months or longer to be approved. After and only after receiving an approved Form 1 Application, will be able to complete certain final manufacturing processes, including serialization. Again, we are informing the public of the facts and the facilities the ATF blatantly has setup to help individuals complete this process legally.

    Even though items may resemble something else, it does not mean that is what the item is. Monocore Solvent Trap Questions So what does this have to do with a monocore solvent trap? Monocore solvent traps came into the spotlight after solvent trap manufacturers saw an opportunity to meet demand. Many registered suppressors sold by Class III Dealers are designed with a monocore baffle, which is a single baffle as opposed to a multi-baffle or modular-baffle setup.

    Thus, the issue is that these items resemble NFA items so closely and those interested in purchasing a solvent trap cleaning device should definitely steer clear of them!

    One major problem with ordering monocore solvent traps from Chinese suppliers is that you are very likely purchasing a product with questionable quality and diluted metals. Think about it…unless you have machining tools that allow for the testing of metals or are a chemist, would you really know if you received T6 vs Aircraft Grade Aluminum?

    Not to mention, many Chinese vendors claim Type III Hard Coat Anodizing but the actual product is painted with matte or paints one would buy at a hobby store. Honestly, you are lucky if the product purchased from a Chinese seller even arrives at your doorstep, considering the high seizure and loss rates.

    Not to mention, if seizure occurs by ICE, you may have another problem on your hands. The problem is, the NFA is notorious for having extremely vague and illogical rules that have limited information published publicly, when it comes to the specifics. For instance, there are many solvent trap manufacturers in the United States that produce cups with center markings. You may be wondering what Center Markings are… Center markings help those that will Form 1 their solvent trap know where to drill the holes.

    Even many veteran producers or resellers of solvent traps have no clue they are in violation! It also depends on express intent, from a supplier or solvent trap vendor point of view. If there are no signs of constructive intent on a solvent trap kit, but the company selling them advertises them as Form 1 Kits or do it yourself suppressors, then the express intent of the sale is for them to be converted. We know the importance of cleaning firearms and keeping firearms clean for reliability and safety, this is what we stand for!

    Monocore solvent traps have a single baffle and most of them have a hole bored through the entire baffle. Many believe that because the end cap is still sealed that they are in the clear to own a monocore prior to receiving an approval on their Form 1.

    It becomes even riskier when ordering monocore solvent traps from Chinese companies, as it is rumored that they come with open end caps that can be swapped out for sealed end caps. These end caps look like a ring and replace the sealed end cap and essentially convert the solvent trap into a full blown suppressor.

    Ordering from overseas means they are imported, so now you are not only purchasing an unregistered suppressor, but you are importing one too. We offer modular solvent traps and tube kit solvent traps for the most efficient cleaning there is and we provide guides on how to use them on our product pages.

    Our Adaptive Solvent Trap have a unique modular design, and they can and Tube Kit solvent traps, but this design is so new that it is no surprise. Besides being an extremely high quality and versatile solvent trap, it comes with everything you need to adapt to the most popular items that the industry offers. For those that want to direct thread to calibers ranging from 9mm,.

    When you order a 1. This modular kit Is under 12 oz. One of the best things about this solvent trap is that cups dividers can be removed for a variety of length configurations. When it comes to deciding on whether to take the grey area and purchase an inferior monocore or to take the legal route for the intended use of cleaning and purchase a superior Adaptive Solvent Trap with a modular design, that will allow you to improve routine bore cleaning processes, efficiency, safety, reliability, and overall performance of your firearm.

    Fast Free Shipping, Nationwide. Armory Den is a US company and wholesale supplier. We have east coast and west coast facilities in order to satisfy our customers from both ends of the country.

    We take pride in our den deliveries and provide fast free shipping to both our customers and businesses, as well as our wholesale partners. We rarely have problems with satisfying our deliveries, even with natural disasters and situations outside of our control.

    A representative from the den will be getting back to you shortly. Guaranteed Customer Satisfaction. Our 5 star customer reviews published on various sites such as Gun Broker and Trust Pilot, reflect our ability and drive in bringing only the best solvent traps and parts from around the world while providing top-notch customer service!

    Solvent Trap Direct has one goal and that is to exceed all expectations! Quit overpaying for solvent traps or worse, overpaying for inferior products! We keep the best type III hard-coat anodized billet machined aluminum solvent traps, titanium solvent traps, and stainless steel solvent traps in stock at all times.

    Modular Solvent Traps vs. Monocore Solvent Traps

    Cut it down until the barrel fits snugly and easily. Stand the glassed brake line upright in a vise. Mix a small amount of resin and use an eyedropper to fill in any interior holes or air bubbles until the solid fiberglass is level with the steel tube end. This will give the junction between the brake line and fiberglass coupling added strength. Acetone can be used to clean the eyedropper. Cut the PVC tubing to the desired length. A longer silencer will be necessary for more powerful cartridges.

    Drill a large hole in the center of one end cap, making it large enough to fit on the fiberglass end to the point where the front sight makes contact. Wrap masking tape around the end cap to cover the holes.

    Homemade Maglite suppressor on different 22 lr guns

    Stand the cap with the inside tube inserted into a vise. Get the cap level and straight with the brake line. Resin fills the small holes, making the tube strong enough to withstand the muzzle blast. When the inside is hardened, turn the assembly over and fiberglass around the backside of the end cap for added strength.

    Avoid getting resin in the opening where the barrel fits. Place the finished cap and inner tube on one end of the PVC tubing that has already been cut to size.

    Center the brake line as you look in the open end of the PVC. Sharpen one end of the drill rod to a point and use it as a center-punch. Stand the assembly up with the solid end cap down. Drop the drill rod down the brake line to get a true center mark. Using a drill bit slightly larger than the outside diameter of the brake line, remove the end cap and drill the hole.

    This rubber swipe will help prevent any hot gasses from escaping even after many shot have been fired through it because rubber tends to stretch and rip rather that have material blasted out of it by a gunshot.

    Let’s chat about suppressor design

    The hole will reseal itself after firing keeping the system nice and tight. Replace this swipe whenever the bullet hole becomes too large to contain gasses.

    This step will make a big difference, particularly in small silencers. The brake line should push into and slightly stretch the rubber swipe. The swipe should not stick out past the face of the cap. Grind off the end of the brake line to get a perfect fit. Unfold sections of steel wool and roll into long strands. As you can see, all of the centerfire rifle suppressors have large internal volumes and fewer baffles….

    Be that as it may, there does seem to be one universal principle: For a suppressor to be effective, it needs baffles to disrupt and slow down the flow of gases exiting the barrel, and it needs internal volume for those gases to expand and pressure to dissipate.

    The image above is a cutaway look at a Specwar top and a Saker bottom from SilencerCo.

    Downrangevideos

    Both of these sound suppressors are rated all the way up to. As you can see in both suppressors, there is a larger volume of space between the muzzle and the primary blast baffle than between all of the following baffles in the baffle stack. That is because the majority of expansion from the propellant gases will take place just as they leave the muzzle. Now, it is good to note that the Specwar has much more volume for expansion and one more baffle than the Saker. Just remember this principle: The higher the pressure, the more volume is needed for those gases to safely expand and slow down.

    For each baffle you put into the suppressor, that is volume being displaced by baffle material. In this scenario, the end caps will take up roughly. The end caps will also thread into the main tube about 0. Ideally, we want to use as many baffles as possible whilst retaining as much of the original volume as possible. Now, for you math geeks out there, 1. If you were able to find baffle material, like a 1. This gives you a setup similar to the diagram seen in the nomenclature section above.

    Albeit basic, this is a solid high-pressure cartridge setup that might not be the quietest can in the world, but is pretty damn effective. This would make an exceptional handgun caliber or rimfire suppressor, and an excellent subsonic rifle suppressor.


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