Wtw4950xw won t drain


  • WHIRLPOOL WTW5550XW (01) PDF MANUAL
  • Whirlpool WTW4950XW 27 Top-Load Washer
  • 5 Reasons Why Your Whirlpool Washer Leaves Clothes Wet
  • What can be wrong when a Whirlpool washer will not fill with water?
  • Whirlpool Washer Repeating Cycle/Keeps Draining/Shuts Off/Not Working
  • WHIRLPOOL WTW5550XW (01) PDF MANUAL

    Nothing happens when the water does not flow and the problem can be one of several things. First, a quick explanation of why we care about the water level switch when the washer is not filling and then I will detail the basic steps I use to troubleshoot any washer that will not fill. The function of a water level switch on a Whirlpool washer.

    The water level switch controls the power going to the water inlet valve. Electrical power is routed from the timer through the water level switch to the water inlet valve. When the correct water level is reached in the tub, the water level switch will remove power from the water inlet valve and direct it to the motor.

    This action ends the fill cycle and begins the agitation phase. Specific models may have more components in the circuit, but this is the basic operation. Troubleshooting steps I use to identify the problem. These steps apply to the most common washers.

    Upscale models may have additional components in the circuit such as thermistors and water valves with more than two solenoids , but these basic steps can serve as a starting point. Select different water temperatures.

    If the water flows on one temperature selection and not another. Disconnect the water hoses at the machine and test by running water through each hose into the drain. Inspect the sediment screens in the inlet of the water valve and clean any sediment that is blocking the flow. If there no water flow on any selection go to step 2 below picture.

    Remove and test the Whirlpool washer water level switch picture above also known as a pressure switch. Use a multi-meter to test for continuity connection between the terminals. Two of the three terminals should show continuity between them. Blow gently on the hose connection of the pressure switch until you hear a click. The two terminals that were showing continuity should now show open until the pressure is released.

    The common terminal should now show continuity to the third terminal until the pressure is released. Water level switch is bad if it fails to test as described in the previous two steps, otherwise, go to step 3. Set the water temperature to warm. Using a multimeter check that there is volts present at one of the solenoid coils on the water valve. If volts is present at the coil and no water is flowing through the valve then water valve is bad. If volts is not present at any solenoid then use the schematic wiring diagram to work back through the circuit until the lost voltage is found.

    If these steps for identifying the common Whirlpool washer fill problems do not isolate the problem, locate the wiring diagram for your washer and call the nearest U-FIX-IT store for personalized help in locating the problem. He has been in the appliance parts business since

    Noisy, vibrating, off-balance Is the floor flexing, sagging, or not level? Flooring that flexes or is uneven can contribute to noise and vibration of the washer.

    Is the load balanced? Evenly distribute the load in the washer basket and make sure the height of the load does not exceed the top row of basket holes. Did you completely remove the yellow shipping strap with cotter pins? Are the gears engaging after the drain and before spin, or is the upper part of agitator clicking during wash?

    These are normal washer noises Is the washer gurgling or humming? When the washer drains, the pump will make a continuous humming with periodic gurgling or surging sounds as the final amounts of water are removed. This is normal. The washer basket moves while washing This is normal.

    Are the fill hose gaskets properly seated? Check both ends of each hose. Is the drain hose properly installed? The drain hose should be secured to the drainpipe or laundry tub. Is the sink or drain clogged? Sink and drainpipe must be able to carry away 17 gal. If sink or drainpipe is clogged or slow, water can back up out of drainpipe or sink. Check household plumbing laundry tubs, faucets, drainpipe, water pipes for leaks. Is water splashing off the tub ring? Center the tub before starting the washer.

    Is water splashing off the load? The fill or spray rinses can splash off the load. Measure fabric softener and slowly pour into the dispenser. Wipe up all spills. Dilute fabric softener in the fabric softener dispenser. Plug power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet. Are you using an extension cord? Do not use an extension cord.

    Is the indicator on the Cycle Control knob properly lined up with a cycle? Turn the Cycle Control knob to the right slightly and pull to start.

    Are the water inlet valve screens clogged? Turn off the water and remove inlet hoses from the washer. Remove any accumulated film or particles. Reinstall hoses, turn on water, and check for leaks. Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on? Turn on the water. Is the water inlet hose kinked? Straighten the hoses. Does the water level seem too low, or does the washer appear to not fill completely?

    The top of the agitator is much higher than the highest water level. This is normal and necessary for clothes to move freely. Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped? Replace the fuse, or reset the circuit breaker. If the problem continues, call an electrician. Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle? The washer pauses for about 2 minutes during certain cycles.

    Allow the cycle to continue. Some cycles feature periods of agitation and soak. Is the washer overloaded? Wash smaller loads. Is the lid open? The lid must be closed during operation.

    Washer will not agitate or spin with the lid open. Washer continues to fill or drain; cycle seems stuck Is the top of drain hose lower than the control knobs on washer? The top of the drain hose must be at least 39" mm above the floor. Does the drain hose fit too tightly in the standpipe, or is it taped to the standpipe? The drain hose should be loose yet fit securely. Do not seal the drain hose with tape. The hose needs an air gap. Is there excessive sudsing?

    Always measure detergent. If you have very soft water, you might need to use less detergent. Connect Inlet Hoses Are you washing many loads? As your frequency of loads washed increases, the water temperature may decrease for hot and warm temperatures. Load too wet Did you use the right cycle for the load being washed? Select a cycle with a higher spin speed if available. Did you wash an extra-large load? A large unbalanced load could result in a reduced spin speed and wet clothes at the end of the cycle.

    Evenly distribute the load and make sure the height of the load does not exceed the top row of basket holes. Residue or lint on load Did you sort properly? Sort lint givers towels, chenille from lint takers corduroy, synthetics.

    Also sort by color. Did you overload the washer? The wash load must be balanced and not overloaded. Clothes should move freely. Lint or powdered detergent can be trapped in the load if overloaded.

    Did you select the correct water level? The water level should be correct for the load size. The load should be under water. Did you use enough detergent? Use enough detergent to hold the lint in the water. Did you line dry your clothing? If so, you can expect some lint on the clothing. The air movement and tumbling of a dryer removes lint from the load. Did you use the proper cycle time and agitation speed for the load?

    Reducing wash time duration and agitation speed are ways to reduce lint. Load is wrinkled, twisted, or tangled Did you unload the washer promptly? Unload the washer as soon as it stops. Did you use the right cycle for the load being washed?

    Use cycles with shorter wash times and low wash and spin speeds if available to reduce wrinkling, tangling, and twisting. Loads should move freely during washing to reduce wrinkling, tangling, and twisting. Was the wash water warm enough to relax wrinkles? If safe for the load, use warm or hot wash water.

    Use cold rinse water. Are the hot and cold water hoses reversed? Check that the hot and cold water hoses are connected to the right faucets. A hot rinse followed by spin will cause wrinkling.

    Did you wrap items around the agitator? Drop items loosely into the washer.

    Did you use the right cycle for the load being washed? Use cycles with shorter wash times and low wash and spin speeds if available to reduce wrinkling, tangling, and twisting. Loads should move freely during washing to reduce wrinkling, tangling, and twisting. Was the wash water warm enough to relax wrinkles? If safe for the load, use warm or hot wash water.

    Use cold rinse water. Are the hot and cold water hoses reversed? Check that the hot and cold water hoses are connected to the right faucets. A hot rinse followed by spin will cause wrinkling. Did you wrap items around the agitator? Drop items loosely into the washer. Do not wrap items around the agitator. Stains, gray whites, dingy colors Did you properly sort the load? Transfer of dye can occur when mixing whites and colors in a load.

    Sort dark clothes from whites and lights. Was the wash temperature too low? Use hot or warm washes if safe for the load.

    Make sure your hot water system is adequate to provide a hot water wash. Did you use enough detergent, or do you have hard water? Use more detergent for washing heavy soils in cold or hard water Are the hot and cold water hoses reversed? Measure detergent and fabric softener. Use enough detergent to remove soil and hold it in suspension. Dilute fabric softener and add to the rinse portion of a cycle only. Do not drip fabric softener onto clothes.

    Is there above average iron rust in water? You may need to install an iron filter. Garments damaged Were sharp items removed from pockets before washing? Empty pockets, zip zippers, snap, or hook fasteners before washing to avoid snagging and tearing of load. Were strings and sashes tied to avoid tangling? Straps and strings can easily become entangled in the load, causing strain on seams and tearing. Were items damaged before washing?

    Mend rips and broken threads in seams before washing. Loads should move freely during washing. Did you add chlorine bleach properly? Do not pour chlorine bleach directly onto load. Wipe up bleach spills. Undiluted bleach will damage fabrics. Do not place load items on top of the bleach dispenser when loading and unloading the washer on some models. Do not use more than the manufacturer's recommended amount for a full load. Dryer will not run Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?

    There may be 2 fuses or circuit breakers for the dryer. Check that both fuses are intact and tight, or that both circuit breakers have not tripped. Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.

    Is the correct power supply available? Electric dryers require volt power supply. Check with a qualified electrician. Was a regular fuse used? Use a time-delay fuse. No heat Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped? The drum may be turning, but you may not have heat. Electric dryers use 2 fuses or circuit breakers. If a problem continues, call an electrician Unusual sounds Has the dryer had a period of non-use? Is a coin, button, or paper clip caught between the drum and front or rear of the dryer?

    Check the front and rear edges of the drum for small objects. Clean out pockets before laundering. Is it a gas dryer? The gas valve clicking is a normal operating sound. Are the four legs installed, and is the dryer level front to back and side to side? The dryer may vibrate if not properly installed. Is the clothing knotted, or balled up? When balled up, the load will bounce, causing the dryer to vibrate. Separate the load items and restart the dryer. Timer does not noticeably advance Is the dryer set to Timed or Air Dry?

    The timer moves slowly and continuously for the timed setting. Is the dryer set to Automatic Drying? The timer moves only when the clothing is mostly dry. Clothes are not drying satisfactorily, drying times are too long, or load is too hot Is the lint screen clogged with lint?

    Lint screen should be cleaned before each load. Is the exhaust vent or outside exhaust hood clogged with lint, restricting air movement? Run the dryer for minutes. Hold your hand under the outside exhaust hood to check air movement. If you do not feel air movement, clean exhaust system of lint or replace exhaust vent with heavy metal or flexible metal vent.

    Are fabric softener sheets blocking the grille? Use only one fabric softener sheet, and use it only once. Is the exhaust vent the correct length? Check that the exhaust vent is not too long or has too many turns. Long venting will increase drying times. Is the exhaust vent diameter the correct size? Use 4" mm diameter vent material.

    Is the dryer located in a closet? Closet doors must have ventilation openings at the top and bottom of the door. A minimum of 1" 25 mm of airspace is recommended for the front of the dryer, and, for most installations, the rear of the dryer requires 5" mm. Has an air dry cycle been selected?

    Select the right cycle for the types of garments being dried. Is the load too large and heavy to dry quickly? Separate the load to tumble freely. Lint on load Is the lint screen clogged? Stains on load or drum Was dryer fabric softener properly used? Add dryer fabric softener sheets at the beginning of the cycle. Fabric softener sheets added to a partially dried load can stain your garments. Drum stains are caused by dyes in clothing usually blue jeans.

    This will not transfer to other clothing Loads are wrinkled Dry smaller loads that can tumble freely. Odors Have you recently been painting, staining, or varnishing in the area where your dryer is located? If so, ventilate the area.

    When the odors or fumes are gone from the area, rewash and dry the clothing. Is the electric dryer being used for the first time? The new electric heating element may have an odor. The odor will be gone after the first cycle. Dryer troubleshooting Check the following: Is the power cord plugged in? Has a fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped? Check to make sure both fuses are intact and tight, or that both circuit breakers have not tripped. Is the dryer door firmly closed?

    Was the Start button firmly pressed? Is a cycle selected? No heat Has a fuse blown, or a circuit breaker tripped? Electric dryers use 2 household fuses or breakers. For gas dryers, is the valve open on the supply line? Unusual sounds Has the dryer had a period of non-use? Clothes ge indonesia contact not drying satisfactorily Check the following: Is the lint screen clogged with lint?

    Is the exhaust vent crushed or kinked? Replace with heavy metal or flexible metal vent. Was a cold rinse water used? Was the load very wet? Expect longer drying times with items rinsed in cold water and with items that hold moisture cottons.

    Clean lint screen. Mend rips and broken threads in seams before washing. Fabric damage can occur if washer is overloaded. Liquid chlorine bleach may have been added incorrectly. Load garments in loose heaps evenly around the basket wall. Do not load above the stainless steel portion of the basket. Load with dry items only. Use cycle designed for the fabrics being washed. Add only 1 or 2 garments after washer is started. Do not pour liquid chlorine bleach directly onto load.

    Wipe up bleach spills. Undiluted bleach will damage fabrics. Do not use more than recommended by manufacturer. Do not place load items on top of bleach dispenser when loading and unloading washer. Garment care instructions may not have been followed. If you experience Possible causes Solution Washer not performing as expected cont. Incorrect or wrong Check for proper water supply. Are hot and cold inlet hoses reversed? Remove any kinks in hoses. Energy saving controlled wash temperatures.

    Energy Star washers use cooler wash and rinse water temperatures than your previous washer. This includes cooler hot and warm washes. Load not rinsed Check for proper water supply. Both hot and cold water faucets must be on. Inlet valve screens on washer maybe clogged. Remove any kinks in the inlet hose. Always measure detergent and follow detergent directions based on load size and soil level. Washer not loaded as recommended. The washer will not rinse well if overloaded.

    Add only 1 or 2 garments after washer has started. Load is tangling Washer not loaded as recommended. Select a cycle with a slower wash action and spin speed, however items will be wetter than those using a higher speed spin. Reduce tangling by mixing types of load items. Use the recommended cycle for the type of garments being washed.

    Not cleaning or Wash load not completely Washer senses load size and adds correct amount of water. This is normal and necessary for clothes to move. Added more water to washer. Added water lifts the laundry off the impeller, resulting in less effective cleaning. Do not load above the stainless steel portion of basket. Incorrect dispenser Clogged dispensers or laundry operation products dispensing too soon. Always select Fabric Softener option to assure proper dispensing.

    It is normal for small amounts of water to be remain in dispenser. Homes with low water pressure may result in residual powder in the dispenser. To avoid, select a warmer wash temperature if possible, depending on your load. Use only liquid chlorine bleach in the bleach dispenser. No sound when Button sounds are turned off.

    The components and their locations are shown. Replace all parts and panels before operating. Failure to do so can result in death or electrical shock. Turn off the water supply to the washer.

    Remove only the 2 top screws from the control panel's rear panel, see figure 1. Figure 1 4. Push back on the control panel just enough to slide a putty knife under the right or left corner of the control panel. Lift the corner of the panel and push in with the putty knife blade to release the clip. Repeat the procedure for the other clip, see figures 2 and 3.

    Remove these Screws 5. Lift the panel off of the top, see figure 4. Remove the control panel. Remove harness from control, see figure 1. Pull tabs back for J-2 removal. Pull tabs back for J removal. Remove two wire connector at J Wires for J-3 are routed and tucked under the braces and are held in place by a tree clip.

    Remove the connector by pinching the tabs on the sides of the connector. J and J are "pinch" connectors and the wires are held by a tree clip. Figure 1 5.

    Remove the knob by grasping it and pulling it toward you, see figure 2. Remove one 1 screw and release two 2 locking tabs on the User Interface to replace control, see figure 3. Remove the seven 7 screws circled in Figure 1 that secure the user interface to the console. ESD may damage or weaken the machine control electron- ics. The new control assembly may appear to work 3. Remove white plastic cover and printed circuit board. See figure 2. Connect wrist strap to green ground connection point or unpainted metal in the appliance -OR Touch your finger repeatedly to a green ground connection point or unpainted metal in the appli ance.

    Remove new black plastic actuator from the service assembly in the kit. Install the new user interface onto the original black plastic actuator mounted in console. Discard the new black plastic actuator. See Figure 3. Do not use electric screwdriver. Replace all parts and panels. The top his held on with by channel connec- tions at the front and two screws at the rear. Tape the lid down.

    Remove top screw from each hinge 2see figure 1. Remove wire harness cover. Electrical Shock Hazard Disconnect power before servicing. See the trol panel. Lift the panel off of the top.

    Remove the hoses. Use a towel to catch any water drippings. Unplug the harness from the valve coils. Unscrew two 2 mounting screws on Replace all parts and panels before each valve coil set, see figure 1. Failure to do so can result in death or 8. Lift valve off of dispenser. Purge the water pressure from the hoses by setting the washer to fill on WARM. The detergent dispenser assembly fits into the top. Remove Dispenser Drawer 4. Remove the dispenser drawer, see figure 2.

    Remove the 2 screws securing the dispenser to the front trim, see figure 3. Remove Screws From Behind Dispenser 7. Remove the trim, see figure 4. The dispenser is held in the back by Figure 1 tabs, see figure 5.

    Remove the two 2 mounting screws securing the switch to the top, see figure 2. Remove the switch. Unclip the harness from the top, see figure 2. Unplug the harness from the control. Push a small screwdriver into the hole of the lid strike to release a locking tab. Turn the strike counter clockwise. Pull the strike out of the mounting hole.

    Turn off the water supply to the washer 3. Use cardboard or padding to lay washer on the front cabinet. Screws Harness Figure 1 4. Disconnect hoses 5. Remove the harness from the shifter, see figure 1. Remove the two mounting screws, see figure 1. Lift out. Access to the drain pump is from the bottom of the unit. The drain pump seals against the tub at two points see the image on the right. Screw Locations Hose Clamp Hose 4. Remove the harness from the pump motor. Remove hose clamp and hose, see figure 1.

    Remove three 3 mounting screws, see figure 2. Remove delphi diagnostic not connecting assembly, see figure 2.

    Splutch 2. Disconnect hoses. Remove pulley cover. To remove the belt, pull out on the belt and turn the splutch pulley until the belt slides off. To remove the motor, unplug the harness and remove the two 2 mounting bolts, see figure 1. Tab 2. Splutch Pulley Figure 1 Mounting Bolt 3. Remove the belt. Hold the splutch pulley and remove the mounting bolt, see figure 1. Lift off the pulley. Remove the shifter. Unsnap the tabs that secure the splutch housing and lift off, see figure 2.

    Remove the motor. Disconnect power before servicing. Remove the splutch assembly.

    Whirlpool WTW4950XW 27 Top-Load Washer

    Remove the capacitor. Remove the drain pump. Remove the impeller. Remove impeller bolt. Remove the four 4 mounting bolts. Pull the gearcase out of the tub. Remove the basket. See the section removing the impeller and basket. Unplug the harness from the motor, shifter and capacitor. Remove the four mounting bolts and pull the gearcase out of the tub. Only 4 are used. If they strip out during reassembly, the other holes can be used to re-mount the gearcase.

    Unplug washer or disconnect power 2. Raise the top on the hinges. To release the tub ring from the tub; first, press press back and down on the top of the tub ring to reduce pressure on the keyed locking tab, then release the tab, see figure 1. Figure 1 1. Remove harness from control and water valves to set the top aside.

    Remove tub ring. Remove impeller bolt cover, see figure 1. Remove impeller. Impeller Bolt 2. Remove cap covering impeller bolt, with a flat blade screwdriver. Remove impeller bolt, pull up on impeller to remove, See Figure 2. NOTE: Using rubber palmed gloves to grip impeller and lifting straight up aids in removal of impeller. Use a spanner wrench and hammer to remove the spanner nut. See figure 3. Figure 2 1.

    NOTE: Always install a new drive block, driven hub and spanner nut if the basket, drive assembly or drive block are removed for service. See figure 1. Remove six 6 screws from basket driven hub. Hold up on Spanner Nut Drive Block Drive Hub basket while removing the last two 2 screws to avoid stripping out threads. See figure 4. Remove driven hub and drive block. NOTE: When driven hub is removed, basket will drop slightly.

    Basket and drive assembly can be replaced at this time if needed. Follow all Instructions that may come with the new basket or drive assembly.

    Install new drive block onto spin tube. The drive block should be fully seated on the spin tube with the stops resting on the top of the spin tube. See Figure 5. Figure 7 Place spanner wrench on spanner nut. Mark starting location of spanner wrench. See Figure 8. Figure 9 9.

    Install spanner nut. Hand tighten spanner nut without tools, until fully seated. See Figure 7. Figure 5 7. Install the new driven hub using new screws supplied in kit, screw in only half way initially.

    Do not strip threads in the plastic base. Lift the basket up with 2 hands as shown in Figure 6 to reduce the gap between the basket and driven hub, then use one hand to hold basket up while driving in two 2 screws that are on opposite sides of the new driven hub. Fully seat the remaining screws. NOTE: Failure to lift basket prior to tighten- ing screws will result in stripped threads.

    Figure 8 Figure 6 See Figure 9. Install impeller, impeller bolt and cap. For best results install a new impeller bolt. Inspect installation. Lift up on on basket Start Spanner Wrench Hang 1. Suspension Rod Here 2. Remove suspension rods from balls, see figure 1. Hang the rods on the top edge of the tub ring.

    Lift tub out, see figure 3. Replace all parts and panels before After performing voltage measurements, operating. Failure to do so can result in death or Failure to follow these instructions can electrical shock.

    ESD may damage or weaken the electronic control assembly. The new control assembly may appear to work well after repair is finished, but failure may occur at a later date due to ESD stress. Be sure the washer is in standby mode plugged in with all indicators off. Perform the following sequence of movement using the cycle selector knob. Rotate cycle selector knob clockwise one click. Repeat step 2 to ensure this was not the cause. If still unsuccessful, see Unsuccessful Entry at right. There are several Diagnostic Test Modes you can access that are shown in the chart below.

    NOTE: Rotating the dial too fast or too slow will affect entry. Washer will exit diagnostic test modes after 5 minutes of inactivity or unplugging the power cord. Was a regular fuse used? Inform 1 and 2 of Activating the Service Diagnostic Modes.

    You may want to do a quick and overall F3 F4 checkup of the washer with these tests before going to specific troubleshooting tests.

    See page 8 for order of automatic test. NOTE: Lid must be closed with lid lock enabled to perform test. See page 9 for manual test mode. NOTE: Multiple outputs may be activated simultaneously.

    NOTE: Outputs left on will time-out after 5 minutes. Not performing calibration will result in poor wash performance. Cycle completes when door unlocks and washer enters standby mode. It may be necessary to unplug the washer or disconnect power to disable the Sales Demo. NOTE: Features and terminology may vary between makes and models.

    The main control will flush water in attempt to clear Suds. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air? Clothing between basket and tub. Make sure inlet hoses are connected correctly.

    Basket should not bounce up and down more than once when pushed. Are hose screens plugged? Is water siphoning out of the drain hose?

    Check tub sump under impeller for obstructions. On E3Fault is displayed if Lid Lock has not moved into unlocked position or motor cannot be powered.

    E1Fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine speed of basket. E5Fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine position of shifter. Clothing should be distributed evenly when loading. If lid does not lock, go to Manual Test. Multnomah county arrests mugshots for basket to stop spinning may vary from seconds up to 2 minutes. If no end-of-cycle tone, make sure Cycle Signal is turned on.

    Will only lock when lid is closed. Will only unlock when basket RPM is 0. May not be available on all models or brands. Allow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition. Spins basket from 0 to RPM. Spins basket from 0 to maximum RPM. OnAllow up to 15 seconds for shifter to reposition. Observe connections and check for continuity with an ohmmeter.

    A potential cause of a control not functioning is corrosion on connections. Time delay fuse? Look for broken or loose wires, failed terminals, or wires not pressed into connections far enough. Check for broken or loose wires. Check for wires not pressed into connector far enough to engage metal barbs. Connectors: Look at top of connector. Resistance checks must be made with power cord unplugged from outlet, and with wiring harness or connectors disconnected.

    Some tests will require accessing components. Connection problem between AC plug and main control. Connections between main control and UI. Main control problem.

    5 Reasons Why Your Whirlpool Washer Leaves Clothes Wet

    User Interface problem. Lid lock mechanism not functioning. Main Control problem. Check the AC power cord for continuity. Check connections and continuity between main control-J9 and UI. Lid not closed due to interference. No response when Start Button 2. Lock not closed due to interference. Verify use of HE detergent. Excessive detergent usage. Off balance. Load is off balance. Balance ring water leak.

    Weak suspension. Check water connections to washer. Verify hot and cold water supply is on. Check for plugged filter or screen in the water valve or hoses.

    Drain hose installation. Check for proper drain hose installation. Valve problem. See TEST 2. Is lid lock showing open during cycle? Drive belt. Harness connections. Shifter problem. Motor problem. Tachometer issue. Clean obstruction from dispenser. Verify that drive belt is not damaged. Check harness connections between main control and drive system. Plugged drain hose. Obstructions to drain pump. Drain pump. Water hose installation. Temperature thermistor.

    Load is tangling. Incorrect water level. Clothes wet after cycle is complete. Load not rinsed. Not cleaning clothes. Fabric damage. Wrong option or cycle selection. Service Diagnostic Mode Fault Codes.

    Washer requires calibration. Perform washer calibration. Pressure transducer on main control. Make sure it is not inserted more than 4.

    Check drain hose for obstructions. Check harness connections between main control and drain pump. Overloaded washer. Oversuds see above. Items caught in in tub sump. Check proper water supply. Not using correct cycle. Washer overloaded. Bleach added incorrectly. Sharp items in tub. Remove console to access main control. Verify that ALL connectors are inserted all the way into the main control.

    Check if shifter assembly is affecting the main control DC supplies. Remove connector J2 from main control. Check if console UI is affecting the main control DC supplies. Remove connector J9 from main control. Perform voltage checks inside header J9 on the board — do not short pins together.

    Main Control has malfunctioned. Replace the main control. Reassemble all parts and panels. Calibrate washer and perform Automatic Test to verify repair. ON or OFF? Functional Check: Replace all parts and panels before 1. Check the shifter and electrical connections operating. The following steps assume that this step was unsuccessful. TEST 2: Valves 2. This test checks the electrical connections 3. Check to see if basket will turn freely. Check to Oxi, Manual and following valve s the and deactivates the valves did Test Fabric relays steps not by Mode.

    Cold, or activates under more Hot, The 2.

    What can be wrong when a Whirlpool washer will not fill with water?

    For individual the valve s solenoid in valves: question check the a. Visually check that the J2 and J16 connectors are inserted all the way into the main control.

    Remove Refer to main connector control J3 diagram from main on page control. Remove connector J16 from main control. With an ohmmeter, verify resistance id not 7.

    Activate shifter motor by switching between Spin and Agitate modes. Energize outputs using Manual Test Mode. NOTE: It will take between seconds for the shifter to change states. Shifter Switch: 9. In manual test mode, switch between Spin and Agitate modes. See chart. Run the st Mode. Slowly turn drum by hand. Tilt washer back to access the bottom of the washer and the drive motor area.

    Visually check the electrical connections to the shifter. With an ohmmeter, check the harness for continuity between the shifter and main control using the following pinouts.

    Whirlpool Washer Repeating Cycle/Keeps Draining/Shuts Off/Not Working

    See chart below. Replace the shifter assembly. Replace shifter assembly. Plug washer verify in washer repair. Automatic power. Calibrate Test to Replace main control. Reassemble all parts.


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