Conditioning gamefowl

  • Bacterial Flushing 101: The Basics for Sabong
  • How to enhance fighting ability of game fowl
  • Historical Keeps
  • Conditioning
  • Bacterial Flushing 101: The Basics for Sabong

    Conditioning the gamecock for battle by Narragansett 1st section Feeding The matter of the ingredients contained in the keep feed has long been considered the great secret in preparing cocks for battle. I disagree. My own experience indicates that the basic feed which a cock recieves in the three or four weeks prior to battle should vary but little from the feed to which he has been accustomed throughout his lifetime.

    Any wide deoarture from his normal diet cannot materially increase his strength, and in all probability will upset his digestive apparatus to the point where he will have les strength than he possessed prior to the introduction of the new feeds. Consider this practical example: the Olympic games bring together the finest conditioned atheletes in the world. The Americans have their diet, the Russians have theirs, the Africans have theirs, the Japanese have still another.

    Yet they all win. However, everyone will agree that if in the last few weeks before the competition any of them had changed his diet to the one used by the champion from another continent, all he would have got out of it would have been a stomach ache and defeat. The same applies to keep feeds for roosters. Stick to the diet to which they are accustomed. Soaked in wooden barrles or plastic Ash cans out in the sun for three or four days so they begin to sour. This mixture is put together by using a good sized pan for measuring and dumping the grain in a big pail where it is mixed, then dump the pailful into a 55 gallon oil drum where it is mixed some more.

    The chickens get this feed from 12 weeks on as long as they live. That way they become accustomed to eating whoile corn which is the best way to feed this grain. In the keep feed I cut way down on the soaked oats but don,t eliminate them entirely. It is interesting to observe the reaction of the fowl to this grain mixture. In hot weather the whole corn is the last thing they eat, whereas in cold weather they gobble up every kernel of whole corn before they touch any of the other grains.

    I am a great respecter of nature, and endeavor to go along with it just as far as I possibly can in everything pertaining to the feeding and care of the fowl.

    You will notice that this basic feed which I use is heavy in sour and whole oats. This makes for prolonged slow growth and late maturity. Both features are desirable in growing young stock. Flesh and fat can be acquired in a relatively short period of time, but strong bone development and strong ligaments and sinews require time. You cannot hurry them. The longer you can keep young stock growing, the tougher and stronger their bone and sinew structure will be at maturity.

    It is far better to have stags strong and husky in April than it is to have them fully matured in September. The soaked sour oats described previously are next best.

    The more sour the better. Be sure to feed them from 12 weeks old, and forever after. Anything which does this in a noraml natural way is good. Strychnine will develop a voracious appetite, but it also stimulates other activities to the point where it does more harm than good. Certain so-called conditioning powders are designed to increase the appetite and are okay.

    The recipe appears at the end of this section. Use once a day for the last week or ten days Do the same with cod liver oil at the other daily feeding. Just a little. When using these ingredients feed in cups, not on the ground where the moist grain picks up dirt and filth. Mix up one in your grain to every four or five cocks once a day or even twice a day. The last three days use the white only of a hard boiled egg to every three cocks. Add it to your grain feed.

    This is okay but I never saw that it did much good. Not much. Occasionally add a little chopped up cooked lean beef. Feed all of this in a cup. Not too much. You might try it. About a teaspoon full to the cock once a day. You can get it at any grain or feed store. I consider it okay. Mix in a little layer pellets if the fowl like them.

    And by all means during this time feed less rather than more. Not more than two-thirds of what you have been feeding. You want your cocks hungry when they enter the pit. There are countless drugs, steroids and other stuff which feeders try to increase the strength or desire or speedor something.

    If you are one of them, here are a few thins you can do which probably will do no harm: Add some bean sprouts chopped up fresh from the chinese restaurant to the noon vegetable feeding. Some cocks will not eat them, but if they do it is good for them. Add a little brown sugar, or still better, some honey to their feed the last week.

    Both are strengthening and produce energy. Some people feel they must add bone meal and fish meal to their feed the first ten days. This is okay, if fresh but if sour or rancid they could throw the cocks off their feed. Others think the cocks should drink toast water or barley water instead of plain fresh water.

    I doubt if they do much good, but they will do no harm. Sometimes I add some concentrated gelatin, sugar and milk prepared in a double boiler and then cooled in a pan until it solidifies. This puts on weight like everything. Adds energy. Use only the last four or five days, especially in cold weather. Some people swear by it. If any individual cock leaves anything in his cup by the end of this time, take away his cup and feed less the next meal.

    To feed accurately you need a feed cup which has a flat top so that you know exactly how much you are feeding. A whiskey higger is okay or one those little plastic measures which come in coffee cans. The important thing is for you to know exactly how much you are feeding. Every one-fourth ounce makes a difference. Measuring by a spoon or a handful is no good. Not accurate enough. Find out exactly how much your measure holds by weighing its contents of your dry grain mix on the scales and then feed a little or a little less than a cupful.

    But the important thing is for you to know how much you are feeding and not be guessing at it. After that, note how each individual cock reponds to his feed, as indicated by his appetite and his weight, and measure his feed accordingly. It is far better to feed too little than too much.

    You wont increase his strength by feeding morethan he can digest quickly. Keeping in mind that the purpose of any keep is to have a cock 1 fresh 2 alert 3 active 4 confident and 5 happy. If anything in this keep or any other one interferes with those objectives, abandon the practices or the feed which you think is causing the trouble and do something else.

    No set schedule or formula will cover all conditions of weather, state of health and flesh, temperament of cocks, etc. You must appraise all these things as you go along by observing the cocks and noting their responses to what you are feeding or what you are doing to them. Coops on green grass one day, fly-pen another, regular small pen with dirt or sand bottom the next, etc.

    Such changes keep them fresh and eager. Whenever the weather is favorable, I like to keep them outdoors during the daytime. It keeps them fresh. Keep water in front of them all the time until the last 24 or 48 hours before fight time, then give them less depending upon the weather. I do like to keep them quiet and resting the last three days or 72 hours prior to their fight, but use judgement on this too and by all means have them comfortable and happy.

    What you feed, how much you feed , when and how you exercise the cocks will vary somewhat with every bunch you put up. During the entire keep, notice the droppings every day. They should be firm but soft. Not hard and dried up, but not watery either.

    If they are either, try to determine the cause and correct it. He will not prosper if his droppings are not right. Sometimes it is the feed that is the trouble. Other times it is caused by nervousness or environment. Whatever the cause, try to eliminate it. No matter what feed or other procedure you are following, your fowl will be going down hill instead of improving if his droppings are off. So pay attention to them. They are important.

    How to enhance fighting ability of game fowl

    That means aside from physical training and nutrition, they also need to undergo regular bacterial flushing during the conditioning period. What is bacterial flushing? As the name implies, it is the process of flushing out harmful bacteria in your fowl by giving them a prescribed dosage of antibiotic periodically.

    Similar to delousing and deworming, bacterial flushing is usually done in the first stages of conditioning. Why is bacterial flushing important? Hence, bacterial flushing eliminates the bacteria that puts gamefowl at risk for harmful diseases that can affect their health and performance. Also by getting rid of unwanted bacteria, you ensure that the birds are able to properly absorb all the nutrients they need to stay healthy and perform well in the pit.

    This process also helps achieve overall farm health. The Philippines is a hot and humid country where bacterial and viral diseases among gamefowl are very common. Aside from having a vaccination program and farm disinfection routine, regular bacterial flushing also helps combat both respiratory and intestinal diseases among gamefowl who are regularly exposed to each other during training. The bacterial flushing process Bacterial flushing is done every month in the farm.

    For the conditioning period, it will help the gamefowls as they start conditioning for the fight. Vetracin Gold Capsule has tiamulin and doxycycline that work hand in hand against respiratory infections which are non-responsive to other antibiotics. For fighting cocks, give 1 capsule per 2 kg body weight for 5 to 7 days.

    Baxidil SE contains sulfadimethoxine and trimethoprim, and is effective against coccidiosis, fowl cholera, infectious coryza and colibacillosis in poultry and fighting cocks. For gamefowl, dissolve 1 tsp 3 grams per gallon of drinking water from 15 to 30 days of age. Administer through the drinking water during the day and give fresh water at night. Inject bird with Bexan XP Injectable, which contains high levels of B-complex vitamins for optimum muscle development and better nutrient utilization.

    It is also fortified with liver extract for blood maturation resulting in a reddened face, comb and wattle, and folic acid for alertness and gameness during actual fights. During the conditioning period, administer 0. For pre-conditioning, 0. Bathe gamefowl with medicated shampoo to remove harmful external parasites.

    He will not prosper if his droppings are not right. Sometimes it is the feed that is the trouble. Other times it is caused by nervousness or environment.

    Whatever the cause, try to eliminate it. No matter what feed or other procedure you are following, your fowl will be going down hill instead of improving if his droppings are off. So pay attention to them. They are important. Toward the end of the keep the droppings should firm up somewhat due to the character of the feed and less water. Regulate both to bachieve the result. You will have to work that out for yourself.

    No formula can anticipate all the conditions which you will encounter during the keep. The use of scales during the keep is important. Weigh each morning before the cock has been fed and when he has been without water all night.

    By weighing at that time you get a more accurate and uniform weighing. Record such weight day by day on a chart right to the quarter ounce so you can determine whether a cock is gaining or losing weight which is a excellent indication of his health, and whether or not he is prospering on the quality and quantity of feed he is recieving.

    A cock should be at about his proper fighting weight when he enters the keep following a week or two of the preconditioning process. Make such increases and decreases in weight gradually. Such uniformity in weight indicates that a cock is jus about right in weight, and you should not attempt to change it. Note especially Spirit and Freshness. I am a great believer in freshness and in having lots of moisture in a cocks tissues when fought. One excellent cocker I know who has a splendid record for setting down cutting cocks attributes much of his success to having cocks with a lot of moisture in their muscles.

    He actually forces in the moisture by feeding aloof oatmeal soaked in buttermilk, and alot od stale bread soaked in water. My own fowl have a splendid reputation for cutting, and I always have plenty of moisture in their systems. Some men like for a cock to carry two, four, or even six ounces more flesh than other equally good conditioners.

    Both win and apparently show equally strong and durable fowl. Some families, and especially round headed fowl, seem to require more meat on them than others. Base your judgement on what you observe with your own fowl. Timing Probably the most inportant feature of the feeding, as well as all other procedures in the conditioning program, is that of timing, or of having the fowl at their peak at the hour of battle.

    To accomplish this you must feed less mostly cracked cornexcercise less, and rest more— complete rest the last 72 hours prior to battle.

    Not over one-half the feed the eveing before fight day unless fought at night and then only one-half white of hard boiled egg. Some conditioners endeavor to control this timing, or peaking, through the use of various drugs. I find that the best overall, and the most consistent, results are obtained by foloowing the procedure outlined here.

    Black Magic 4oz. Use all during the keep. You have up a show of 12 birds from which you must show eight. Which ones should you use? In this respect, I always think of the advice given me by Elmer Ehrhart of York, Pennsylvania, over thirty years ago.

    Leave the Kings and Queens at home. But the more he works on the case he becomes convinced he has a chance, then when the verdict goes against him he is sunk. Section 2 Taming Taming a cock is a feature in the conditioning process most keeps omit entirely. Personally, I consider it of the utmost importance. Just as important as the feed and exercise parts. Probably more important.

    Look at it this way: You bring a cock which has been accustomed to quiet surroundings and familiar people into a strange place, slap a set of heels on him, then take him to a brilliantly lighted arena with a different sort of pit surface, and a mob of strangers raising a racket like a boiler factory and expect him to ignore all these strange sitghts and sounds and turn in a superb exhibition of fighting.

    Under similar circumstances great opera singers have been known to become distraught and they could not utter a sound. Gamecocks react the same way. Especially the high-strung ones which have been all keyed up anyway.

    In a few days he will be looking for the bread and learn that when you stop by his coop that you are not going to harm him but rather that you have something for him which he likes. Pretty soon most of them will take bread from your fingers. You have made a good start. He will tame down in time. Whyen you have to catch the cock to move him from one pklace to another do so very gently. Take your time. Avoid getting him excited or making him wild. If he goes to ramming or flying around, leave him alone for a while and let him settle down.

    Then, when you get him in hand, pet him and rub him slowly and gently for a minute or so before placing him in his new quarters. When you do set him down, do it slowly and gently. Let him know that you are not going to hurt him, that he can have cinfidence in you. Offer him a bite of apple while you have him in hand, if he accepts it, so much the better. Now when you first bring a stag into the conditioning house, that is a particularly critical time.

    Everything there is new to him. Take it slow and easy. Place him gently on the work bench, let him look around and get aquainted with the place for 25 seconds, keeping your hands on him gently all the time. Then, when he gets ready to walk around, as he will in a few seconds, walk around with him very slowly and gently. But keep your hands on him gently all the time, and make no quick or fast moves.

    After a minute or so, lift him gently off the board, rub him for a few seconds, and then carefully ease him into his cock stall, releasing him slowly, and quietly axi handshake the door.

    They never fail to remark when they visit me how tame my birds are and what a tussle they have with theirs. By nature they are not as tame as theirs are since mine are more high strung.

    The first few times you taka a cock out of a conditioning stall is another critical time. Do this very quietly and very gently. Better to leave him in there than to get him all excited and fighting you. Sometimes you can divert his attention with feed in his cup so that you can get your hands on him gently without raising a fuss.

    Rather, concentrate on having him aquainted with the place and liking it there. Another dandy tidbit to put on the work bench for taming a cock are little pieces of unsalted butter about the size of a pea. They love it; dance and jumparound calling the hens annd forgewt all about you and being afraid. While he is in that mood, take your hands off him and back away a step or two so that he owns the work bench himself. Then slowly approach him with your hands down rather than extended as if to catch him and when you get alongside him, slowly and gently put your hands back on him, move him around a little, pick him up, pet him a few times, and carefully return to his stall.

    All this seems like an awful lot of detail and actually takes longer to read than to do it, but if done right the first few times it pays big dividends, and saves a tremendous amount of time for all the remainder of the keep, to say nothing of avoiding countless scratches and bruises to yourself. In a couple of days you should be able to open the cock stall door and have the cock come out to you by himself, fly to the work bench, crow and strut around without your laying a hand on him.

    That same relationship carries over when you move him from pen to pen. He will be right at the door waiting for you to pick him up and carry him to new quarters. He always enjoys changes.

    The best thing I know for this is a portable radio. Sports events are especially good with all the shouting. Also make plenty of noise while you are in the cockhouse. Drop pans or buckets on the floor.

    Get him use to them and teach him mep course notes pdf will not harm him. Let him get use to them. He will encounter plenty of noise and confusion at the pit, so let him get use to them ahead of time. If a cock will be fought under electric lights, by all means work him on the training table under electric lights so that he will become accustomed to them. Likewise, if he is to fight at night, spar him at night and have the pit floor as nearly as possible like the pit floor where he will fight.

    Bring the radio to the sparring pit and have it blaring away as loud as you can while the sparring is going on. I have a couple of little 3x2x2 portable, collapsible scratch pens which I take with me on multi-day meets.

    These are setup with some shucks or straw for litter in or about the cock house. After the cock has been worked I placed him in there for three minutes while I work the next cock. Throw a few grains of feed in there and he makes the straw fly.

    Placing him in there and taking him out also adds to the taming. Do it slowly, and gently so as to build up confidence between you and him. But, five minutes in the familiar scratch coops and everything was alright again.

    They owned the place. All these little things help to obtain it. When heeling the cocks I greatly prefer to do the holding and to let someone else tie on the heels.

    The cock does not understand this. The cock is used to me and my hands, so he is relaxed and comfortable and everything is fine.

    Historical Keeps

    By no stretch of the imagination am I an expert handler, but the cock knows me and is used to my way of handling him. Accordingly, he is more relaxed with me amid all the noise and confusion than he would be in the hands of a stranger.

    If you or the man who put up the birds are not going to handle, at least have whoever has done the conditioning bring him into the pit, weigh him, walk him around while he becomes accustomed to the surroundings and then pass him to the handler just before the start of the battle.

    So that is about all I can think to tell about taming a cock. Remember always that a cock cannot produce more than a fraction of his potential ability in the pit if he is distracted by the strange sights, sounds, and surroundings.

    It is your duty as a conditioner to aquaint him with those conditions ahead of time. Call yourself a dunce for not aquainting with such conditions in advance. Such exercises may improve all of those desirable traits to a limited extent, but of one thing I am certain; they surely take the cut out of him!

    And I would rather have cutting ability than all those others combined. Accordingly, long ago I abandoned the old heavy bench work practices, and concentrated on keeping a cock fresh, loose, alertand confident wherever he is, especially in the pit which I want him to consider his own domain.

    That is the principal or basis of this keep. So have it constantly in mind. It all is designed to promote cutting and confidence.

    Likewise it is my belief that a cock hits as much with his heart as he does with his feet and legs. Accordingly, everything you can do to encourage him to put all of his heart into his punches is of more importance than any small increase in physical strength which you can give him. As regards the latter, my experience has been that the exercise program forth here develops just as much strength and endurance as any other, and promotes infinitely more cut and desire.

    You will need certain facilities and equipment. Hopefully you already have most of them and can build the others at small expense 1 A cock house. I like to use peat moss in the stalls. This latter is important, especially where you are shifting cocks from the outside to the inside frequently. Nothing is so dangerous for developing rattles as moisture in the cock house, and peat moss helps to protect against the hazard.


    As many as the number of cocks you plan to put up at one time. Two days at a time for a total of 12 days over a period of three weeks should be enough. Little or non the last week. I like to have six inches or more of washed gravel for the floor or bottom.

    The fly pens should be covered, if outside, with only the front open. For litter use corn shucks if you can get them. If not, use clean bright straw or hay. If you use straw or hay, put in fresh litter every keep or so. Cocks like to scratch in clean bright stuff. There probably is more or less feed in straw or hay.

    Watch out for this or the cocks might get a lot more feed when they first go in there than you want them to have. Sometimes I put a couple of hens in each pen for a day or so ahead of time to clean out the grain in the litter.

    Throw in a small chunk of it from time to time. Not every day. The cocks will tear it up in great shape and probably eat some of it which is good for them. For roosts I like swinging perches alternating front and back. The cocks can see each other that way and do alot more flying up and down, which is what you want them to do. Have a few hens running loose outside. Make them fly up to their perches to enjoy the sights. Smaller is just as good.

    No doubt you already have them. Put a few inches of washed gravel in there. No litter. We will call these sand coops for identification. We will call them grass coops. I prefer to use coops on grass instead of tie cords. These are cooling off pens. Place a cock in there for two or three minutes after you have worked him so he can scratch around while you are working the next bird.

    Then, return to his cock house stall for feeding. It is natural voluntary exercise which will not stiffen the muscles if not overdone. Start in four weeks prior to fight date. Do not feed the cock in the evening prior to placing him in the fly pen. Instead, give him a worm pill while he is empty, and a good delousing. Then, place him in the fly pen for the night. It is a good thing to remove him from his regular coop at night in order not to excite him by catching him in the daytime.

    Instead, mix up a drink of black- strap molasses and water, about a half-cup full to a gallon. This black-strap molasses water acts as a tonic and a laxative.

    By the next morning he should be plenty empty and hungry. Start in then with your regular feeding program as described in the first section. Don,t doctor up your feed at all with any raw eggs or fancy stuff. Just dry grain scattered in the litter. Clean water before him all the time. Also grit and oyster shell. The secret to using fly pens successfully is to keep the cock active, scratching and flying while he is in there.

    Break it up by removing him to the grass pen or the sand pen about every third day. Hence the feed measuring cup so you will know how much feed he is getting. Keep him hungry and scratching. I like to have the cock in the fly pen about two-thirds of the time for the first two weeks, and on grass if there is any the other third. If no grass, then in the sand pens. If a nice warm day comes along after a cold stretch of weather put him outside even if he was just outside the previous day.

    The sun will do more for him than the scratching. Leave him were he is or take him into the cock house and let him rest. Anything for a change. It works him too hard and makes him logey. If there is not grass give him some chopped apple, onion and lettuce in a cup every day or so.

    Even daily if you wish. If not, just before feeding is perfectly o. The whole point is that you want to keep him fresh, alert, loose, and happy at all times. That comes first. The schedule is secondary. Change it as neccessary to accomplish the main objective. Weigh the bird each time you take him out of the fly pen, note his state of flesh, make record of it on a chart, and feed accordingly.

    During these first two weeks it would be fine to give him the white of a hard boiled egg occasionally, about one to every three cocks. It wont put on any weight and he loves it.

    Anything to keep him happy. By the end of two weeks he should be quite tame and friendly, which is important. That pretty well takes care of the first two weeks or so. If there has been a long spell of foul weather and the 14th day is bright and fine, leave him out in the grass or sand pen for another day or two. One thing to be avoided is to bring him in when he is wet.

    If he should get wet when outside at any time, put him in the fly pen to dry out over night and feed him in a cup out there. A wet cock in a condition coop stall is a dandy way to bring on rattles. Up until 72 hours before fight time I like to feed in the cock house both morning and night, have him roost there, but spend the day outside whenever possible.

    Most of such outside time will be spent in the sand coops. Alternate between the two during all that time. If the weather is bad you might give him a day in the fly pen but no more than one day at a time and only then to break up the monotony of the other quarters. I prefer not to use the fly pens at all the last two weeks, and never the last week. Feed in cups to discourage scratching.

    The bench or hand work in the cock house is light, simple and easy. Principally it consists of taming and making friends with him. You are not going to make his muscles any stronger or tougher than they are already by your hand work in the last two weeks. Instead of working him to death in there, concentrate on toning him up, building his ego and confidence in himself and in you, getting him aquainted with you and his surroundings and the many distractors he wqill encounter at the pit.

    Tone up his muscles through proper food and rest. Probably rest, enforced rest, will do more toward accomplishing that than anything else. Stimulate his desire through certain things you add to his food. Keep him fresh,loose, alert, confident, and happy. When you first put him on the bench, take it slow and easy. Make the work bench a pleasant place for him to be. A play pen rather than a torture chamber. Walk him around and back and forth very slowly at first.

    As he becomes accustomed to the exercise gradually speed it up and increase the number of runs. He should be on his toes, tripping along like a ballet dancer. If he enjoys this and keeps talking to you all the time, you can run him at the peak of his work up to 40 or 50 times, counting over as one and back as two,etc. Do something else with him in the exercise line which he enjoys. Maybe he enjoys being flown or flirted. All right, do that. But for no longer liking it or enthusiastic about the game.

    Most cocks like to be flown toward the work bench. Step back a few feet and toss him toward it. When he lands he should flap his wings, dance around and crow. Gradually increase the distance of the flight. Four or five times at the most. If he has already taken a goodly number of runs and flies, a couple is enough. I usually end up this session on the bench with this exercise, then weigh him and put him in a little scratch coop while I work the next bird.

    After you have worked or played with the birds for a week and you are well aquainted with each other, you might try placing him on his back on the work bench were he will have to struggle to regain his feet. You hope he will never get knocked into that position but he might, so he may as well get some experience in regaining his feet.

    It is a spectacular procedure, but I never saw the cock yet which did not hate it, which is reason enough for me not to do it. Many people like to hold a cock by the thighs and make him flutter, or balance him on their arm and make him do the same.

    The fowl hate this too, and likewise, it is inclined to stiffen the leg muscles. Their leg muscles have already had enough exercise by the natural scratching in the fly pens and flying up onto the swinging perches.

    Another thing to avoid is having a wild or noisy bird in the cock house. One such agitator in there is apt to make all the other birds wild and agitated, which is the last thing in the world you want to occur. So throw him out. If hip roof addition framing are compelled to fight him, do so right out of the sand pen. The last three days or 72 hours before fight time, complete rest.

    This is the time you want him to build up his energy for the big effort. Nothing will accomplish this so well as rest. Complete enforced rest. Keep his exercise and scratching down to a minimum, just enough to maintain his appetite and to keep him from becoming bored and sluggish.

    A famous doctor once said that people would be far healthier if they spent one full day a every week in bed. Complete bed rest. Probably he was right. But who would do all the chores and pay the bills? Besides, look at all the fun you would be missing. So his good idea never gained acceptance.

    But fighting cocks are not under such compulsions. Observe what wild geese do on their long thousand mile migratory flights. Do they go flying exercising their muscles in preparation for such flights? No, they rest. Rest for days storing up energy for the big effort. And they do the same between the thousand mile hops. Rest and eat. During these 72 hours, feed less rather than more. Keep him a little bit on the hungry side during this time, and at the hour of battle he should be real hungry.

    It wont weaken him, and he will be sharp and eager. A few tips as to what to do and what to avoid may be helpful: On a long haul, travel by night.

    The cocks rest better and it is cooler. Tough on you but good for the cocks. Be careful of odors. Any kind of odors. If you want to paint or creosote your cock stalls or carrying cases, do it months in advance so that all the smells have disappeared.

    Be especially careful to avoid exhaust fumes from your automobile. These can ruin everything in just a few minutes. Avoid airconditioning units. These things affect adversely even human beings, and fowl are far more sensitive than people. Watch out for heat at any time, especially in the 72 hours.

    Heat weakens a cock tremendously. Do everything you can to avoid getting a cock hot, particularly the 24 hours before battle. On fight day feed only one-third white of hard-boiled egg and a few sips of water. You want them empty and hungry when they enter the pit.

    For exercise, just two or three short flies toward the work bench to keep their muscles loose. The lack of feed will not weaken them.

    Weigh in at the very last minute. Your birds may drop an ounce or two during the last few hours which will enable you to meet a smaller bird on the match list. Do all your trming out a few days prior to fight date. A couple a pecks at a cut orange or a sip of water after heeling is o. To repeat: remember always that the foundation of this keep freshness, loose, relaxed muscles, alertness, eagerness, and confidence. Also remember that there is no substitute for your own thinking.

    No keep schedule can anticipate all the situations you will encounter. If you get into a jam, you might consult some other exoerienced cocker.

    He possibly could help you, but probably not, for he can not know all you have done or failed to do. In all likelihood you,ll have to figure it out for yourself. Forget it, cuss me, and try again. All any keep can do for a bird is put him is put him in the condition he is in right now. If you mess around with him for two or three weeks he very likely will lose that edge and not be as good as he is today. After all it is the cock himself who must do the fighting.

    All any keep can do is to enable him to put forth the best effort of which he is capable. That is for you to judge based upon your own experience with it. The system is as nearly foolproof as any I know. Sincerely, Narragansett In the first printing of this booklet I goofed through not saying anything about sparring. It is an important part of the conditioning process, and most cockers do not make the most of it. I like to have fowl reasonably tame and accustomed to being handled and aquainted with their surroundings before sparring at all.

    It is unfair and likely to produce faulty judgement to spar a bird when it is wild, nervous and distracted by all the new surroundings. When you have the birds reasonably gentled down and aquainted with you, proceed as follows: 1st sparring. Bill the birds until they are thoroughly mad at each other, and drop them down real close together. Practically on top of one another.

    They will go together like a shot. Snatch up easiest classes at umd reddit quickly as you can,point at each other and drop down again, just as close as the first time.

    Snatch up immediately. Do this four times. The entire session will not take over half a minute. This teaches them to swing into action the second their feet touch the pit floor.

    Pet and rub them gently and return to their quarters. Start out the same way. Only between rounds take a step backward. This requires them to run a few steps before breaking.

    But keep the rounds a continuous process. No wait or hesitation between rounds. The same as number two, only increase the distance between the birds when setting down. They should cover the distance between them like a flash before breaking into the air. No hesitation between pittings. On the third round of this session let them go at each other for a while.

    This is when you can judge their fighting style: whether they are low-headed, duckers, hit deliberately or merely fan the air, look where they hit, wheel, all that sort of thing.

    This is when you select your show. Give them a rest, then set down fairly close to each other, snatch up as soon as they come together and return to fly pens or scratch pens. Throw out the ones that do not make the team.

    This session should be held about a week before fight day. About 48 hours before fight day. This is just a tune-up session to keep them on edge. Set down fairly close to each other and snatch up immediately. Only two rounds.

    Carbohydrate Loading Keep by Don Blansett The sport of cockfighting has existed for hundreds of years, but like most sciences, more progress has been made in the past fifty than all those preceding years. For the same reasons human beings today are stronger, bigger and faster than their grandparents: breeding and feeding. Great strides have been made in genetics and nutrition in the past fifty, and particularly, the last twenty years.

    Consequently, average life expectancy, general health, and size have increased by leaps and bounds. In the animal world horses run faster, cows produce more milk and beef, hens lay more eggs, and so on. Cockers of today are more knowledgeable and generally better educated, with more available information, than ever before. But, while most cockers are great students of experience, as a rule, they do little to actually study genetics and nutrition with an eye toward improving the ability and performance of their fowl.

    The research, the studying, and the experimentation have been done for you. This keep can work for you. I have read dozens of keeps, and while I have not seen one written in the last ten years that would actually be detrimental to your fowl, most have been fairly similar as to feed and work. You will find that this keep is different in its approach, than any you have ever used. To be successful, you must follow this keep closely, in quantity of feed and work, and in type of feed and timing.

    This conditioning method is based on the latest studies concerning athletic competition, and what are cocks except athletes? To understand fully how this keep works, you should know a little about nutrition and its effects. So you can understand the ideas involved, I will try to simplify them. Glycogen is a chemical that serves as fuel for the muscle.

    The more glycogen present in the muscle, the longer that muscle will be able to act effectively. Studies have shown that if glycogen stores are depleted by exercise and a low carbohydrate diet, then replaced by rest and a high carbohydrate diet, the muscle can store twice as much glycogen, or energy, as it had originally. No one needs to tell you what this means in practical terms: your cock will hit harder, and more importantly, will be able to do it much longer than he would have otherwise.

    Aside from having a vaccination program and farm disinfection routine, regular bacterial flushing also helps combat both respiratory and intestinal diseases among gamefowl who are regularly exposed to each other during training. The bacterial flushing process Bacterial flushing is done every month in the farm.

    For the conditioning period, it will help the gamefowls as they start conditioning for the fight. Vetracin Gold Capsule has tiamulin and doxycycline that work hand in hand against respiratory infections which are non-responsive to other antibiotics.

    For fighting cocks, give 1 capsule per 2 kg body weight for 5 to 7 days. Baxidil SE contains sulfadimethoxine and trimethoprim, and is effective against coccidiosis, fowl cholera, infectious coryza and colibacillosis in poultry and fighting cocks. For gamefowl, dissolve 1 tsp 3 grams per gallon of drinking water from 15 to 30 days of age.

    Administer through the drinking water during the day and give fresh water at night. Inject bird with Bexan XP Injectable, which contains high levels of B-complex vitamins for optimum muscle development and better nutrient utilization.

    It is also fortified with liver extract for blood maturation resulting in a reddened face, comb and wattle, and folic acid for alertness and gameness during actual fights.

    During the conditioning period, administer 0.

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